July 1999 edition 3rd Addition

Everyone was saddened to hear that our Mukhtar was unwell and we are pleased to report that he is on the mend. After a spell in hospital he returned to the village at the beginning of July with one less kidney, but looking much fitter. He is now recuperating extra-ordinarily well and I am sure will be roaring around the village very soon, administering the village affairs.

The village Committee hopes to purchase the property next to the Youth Club for the use of the village and it is planned in the near future to have a part-time secretary and a handyman to keep the village in good order. All the village business will be undertaken from this property, which will be joined to the youth club in one large complex. This is where the Village Committee meetings will be held as well as seminars with speakers and local gatherings.

How do you like our new heading? In our next edition we anticipate including news on our surrounding villages with an article on the history of Lord Kitchener and Psematismenos. We have requested from the B.B.C. a copy of the video shown in November 1997 of "Kitchener in Cyprus", but unfortunately, to date, this has been ignored.

In this edition we have a fascinating article on Maroni Archaeology by Alison Todd. Our village is blessed with so much talent and we are sure many interesting articles will follow. Another interesting article by Norman Elliott on ex-pat problems cover the area of Work Permits. Another article this month looks into the now defunct Cyprus Railway.

Our thanks are due to Adonis and his mother, Christina who help to distribute our newsletter. The only ones left in the shop were for people who are off the island.

We now pass on extra copies to the local schools, the bank and central points in Psematismenos and Khirokitia.

Please note the resident's get-together at Chris's Coffee Shop, 8.30 p.m., Thurs 2nd Sep. 99.

Although it doesn't yet have any "ancient monuments" which are officially open to the public, the Maroni area is quite rich in archaeological sites of various periods. It became well known in antiquarian circles over a hundred years ago when some of the first archaeologists to work in Cyprus turned their attention in this direction, partly in the search of the famous ancient Classical period city of Marion. Similarity of the modern names at first led them to believe that it might lie near Maroni or Mari, but it is now accepted that ancient Marion is at modern Polis. The British Museum carried out excavations near Maroni in 1897-8 and discovered a number of important Late Bronze Age tombs (1500-1200 BC) with much fine pottery, jewellery and other objects which reflect the wealth and international trade of this period of the island's history. Some of these finds from Maroni can be seen in the British Museum's Cyprus gallery, which was magnificently reorganised in 1987 thanks to the support from the Cyprus-based Leventis Foundation.

Considering the importance of the site, it is surprising that there was no further scientific archaeological work until Gerald Cadogan took up the task from 1982 to recently. His team excavated mainly at Maroni-Vournes with its large and interesting Late Bronze Age buildings, and also carried out a "rescue excavation" (during pipeline construction) of tombs at Kapsaloudhia a little further north. The project was sponsored by the British School (of Archaeology) at Athens and the Classics Department of the University of Cincinnati, where Mr Cadogan was teaching archaeology. Vournes, which is not usually open to the public, is next to the dirt road which runs from "new Maroni" south-east towards the sea, about 2.5 kilometres from the village on the south side of the track.

Late Bronze Age activity in the area lasted from about 1600-1200 BC. At Vournes among the earlier (approx 14th century BC) structures to have been uncovered is a mysterious and unique "Basin Building", about 4.5 metres square, incorporating a sunken basin with a paved floor around it. It is uncertain whether its purpose was religious (e.g. for ritual ablutions), industrial or simply for bathing. There were also rich tombs of about 1500-1300 BC, which were mostly robbed when the 13th century BC buildings were constructed on top of them. The most impressive remains at Vournes, are the 13th century BC Ashlar Building and its companion West Building. The Ashlar Building (30.5 by 20 metres in size and oriented NW-SE) was constructed of ordinary stones, mud bricks and, especially in its central part, large Ashlar (rectangular, carefully cut) stone blocks. Unfortunately, much of the Ashlar masonry has been removed at various times in the past by people who needed the stones for other buildings, so it now requires some imagination to visualise the splendid, probably two-storey building as it was originally.

The main entrance of the Ashlar Building (21 on the plan), a sort of veranda with a large central pillar, was on the SE side, leading into a large room (20) again with a pillar. Just off this was a storage space (16 & 17) where some kind of produce was kept in rows of huge ceramic jars (pithoi). Stairs to the upper storey may have been here, above the jars. A row of rooms (1-7) forming the NE side of the building included one (4) with an olive press, one of the earliest preserved examples in Cyprus. A rectangular stone press bed was set on a platform in a corner of the room, and many burnt olive pips were found nearby. The more modestly constructed north part of the building, with symmetrical sets of rooms (8-15) reached by a side entrance, may have been used for industrial purposes, perhaps including textile manufacture as the finds included ceramic looms weights. After its 1200 BC abandonment, the ruined Ashlar Building was later used as a religious shrine in the Archaic and Hellenistic periods (700-200 BC) and many figurines of this period were found. South-west of the Ashlar Building across a street is the slightly smaller West Building, with three rows of pillar bases down the middle, it may have been a storage warehouse. In its centre is a huge circular stone, the base of a olive crushing mill, which must have been installed at a later time, perhaps in the Hellenistic (330-50 BC) or Medieval period. The Late Bronze Age buildings at Vournes give clear evidence of the well organised people who lived in the area at that time, and were involvedin activities including agriculture, food preparation, olive oil production, textile manufacture, metalworking and writing (in the still undeciphered "Cypro-Minoan" script). Imported pottery and luxury goods (including gold, silver, ivory, glass etc, mainly found in the tombs) show that they were involved in the international trade between Cyprus, Egypt, the Levant and the Aegean at this period when Cyprus was a major exporter of copper. This prosperous lifestyle continued down to around 1200 BC, when the area was abandoned at a time of widespread disturbances throughout Cyprus and the rest of the Mediterranean.

Gerald Cadogan and his team have published many articles about their results and are now concentrating their efforts on writing a book which will give full coverage of all the evidence. A separate project directed by Dr Stuart Manning of Reading University has recently been doing an archaeological survey of the Maroni area, and excavation at various sites. (We hope to report on this in a future issue)

It is a commonly held misconception that once an expatriate is in possession of a valid work permit, this entitles him or her to work in Cyprus. Whilst this is quite true, there is one major qualification, sometimes overlooked. That is, the work permit issued by the Immigration Department entitles the person to whom it is issued, only to work for a specific company in a specific position. Should that person leave the employment of the company mentioned on the work permit, then it is automatically cancelled, together with all the rights and privileges attached to it. Without a work permit, and this of course applies to all expatriates living in Cyprus, including those living here as retirees, a person is not allowed to work.

This legally covers work of a voluntary nature for a charitable organization, even when such voluntary work is purely that and the volunteer receives no recompense what-so-ever. There is one slight relaxation to this law which is observed by the Central Bank within whose remit work permits initially fall and that is, that persons in possession of a work permit can, with the Central Bank's approval, perform voluntary services for charitable organizations. This is not a right but a waiver of the rules. For example, I am employed in Cyprus and in possession of a valid work permit. I am allowed, providing it is declared to the authorities, to act as a Director of the Cyprus International Business Association and as Treasurer of the Missions to Seamen. Both of these capacities are sanctioned by the authorities because I have a valid work permit for my full time occupation.

It is well known that many expatriates perform voluntary tasks for various organizations and the authorities turn a blind-eye to this voluntary work, as there is no provision within the law for persons wishing to take up voluntary work. As the authorities seem happy not to notice, then it would appear that at least a temporary solution is in operation.

There are a number of benefits enjoyed by work permit holders, not all of which are available to retirees. For instance, work permit holders can purchase (depending on the salary earned) two cars, not only duty free, but also free of VAT. The only tax levied on a car purchased by a work permit holder is the Turkish Relief Tax. Also, once the initial work permit has been granted, usually for one year, this can be renewed at expiration of one year to three year periods.

An offshore employee is required to operate two bank accounts. One is known as a Local Disbursement Account which must be in Cyprus pounds and is used for payment of all their local expenses. The other is an External Account which can be held in almost any currency and certainly all of the major transferable currencies. Neither the LDC account or the External account can be overdrawn in any circumstances.

Tax payable by work permit holders is 50 per cent of that paid by local nationals the maximum being 20 per cent.

On a slightly different subject, did you know that if you are a house owner in Cyprus there is no need to pay the deposits required by CYTA, and the Electricity Board? This also applies to mobile phones.

I will endeavour to produce a short article concerning expatriate matters on a regular basis and if any readers have specific points that they would like addressed, please let David Bryant know. I will be happy to find out answers to specific questions.

Most of our wild flowers have seeded and vanished as Cyprus slips into hot dusty "summer mode". However there are a few that survive the heat of June, most belong to the thistle type family and the varieties are very interesting.

The Dwarf Carline Thistle, although quite common is fairly difficult to locate. The Chamapeuce has many branches and grows to a height of about 80 cms.

The Chamapeuce has been used medicinally since former times in the treatment of arthritis and rheumatism.

The Pale Star Thistle is very common, it grows close to the ground in clumps and has a beautiful yellow centre with spines forming a star shape.

The Globe Thistle, often seen by the roadside is a very tall erect plant sporting perfectly spherical pale blue flowers.

The Spanish Oyster Plant, which is very rare, has the most beautiful bright orange/yellow flowers. We have found only three of these lovely plants in the Maroni area. Cardopatium is often seen on the roadside. It looks like bright blue cushions, but it is very prickly………so beware!

Another strange plant is the Eryngo. It is very spiny and the colour is grey/green with purple translucent tinges. The flowers are small blue and spherical.

There are still a few "non-prickly" flowers around. The delicate Caper with its lovely white flowers and many purple tinged stamens. The vivid blue of the Chicory flower and the tall spiky flowers of the Mullein.

All will now be really quiet on the flower front until the first rains and we will start again then.

In his excellent Story of the Cyprus Government Railway Lieutenant Colonel B.S.Turner enumerates all the early projects for a railway system in Cyprus.

In 1878 railways were being planned and constructed all over the world and it is no surprise to discover that no less than eleven schemes were put forward between that year and 1903. The Edwardian period marked the peak of development and perfection in European railways, but it is strange that not one of the projected railways for Cyprus was of normal (standard) gauge. The early schemes of 3ft 3in were for lines to connect Larnaca and Nicosia, with a branch to Famagusta, later ones of 2ft 6in from Nicosia to Larnaca, and two of 2ft 5 and a half ins. It is a complicated story, but the outcome was a joint scheme for the development of Famagusta Harbour. A new waterfront, and a railway to Nicosia built to the 2ft 6in gauge.

The construction was undertaken by the firms of C.J.Wills who did the harbour work (using incidentally a standard gauge contractor's railway, trucks and locomotive) and the Nicosia railway by the firm of Baker Shelford. This line was to be known as Section 1. The first Cyprus Government Railway locomotive Number 1 and four-wheeled wagons arrived in 1904. The grand opening was on 21st October 1905. The length of Section 1 was 37 miles. During 1905 and 1906 work continued on the extension of the line to Morphou. This constituted Section 2 and was opened for traffic on 31st March 1907. 36 miles of fairly easy going across the central plain of the Messaoria to Nicosia and 24 miles of tougher terrain had now been completed giving 60 miles of railway built during the reign of King Edward.

An interesting feature of the railway was that Railway Post Offices were established at some of the stations, namely, Famagusta, Stylos, Prastion, Yenagra, Trahoni, Nicosia and Morphou.

The railway was opened to its terminus at Evrykhou in the Solea Valley on the 14th June 1915. Two large tank engines supplied for hauling the mail and passenger trains up the steep gradients. These were of 4-8-4 type built by Kitsons of Leeds, numbered 41 and 42. In 1920 two more, numbered 43 and 44 were supplied, the latest and largest ever to be used in Cyprus. Can you add to the information in the article? Photographs, stories, personal experiences, anecdotes, memorabilia will be welcomed and where necessary returned to owners undamaged. Help us to write another article !

The photograph at the top of this article was taken by Pat Bryant in the village of Kalavasos, where this engine and rolling stock are on display. The editors welcome photographs and articles.

The Lost Continent, author Bill Bryson.

I expect that many of you will have heard "The Lost Continent" serialised on World Service and BFBS 2. If not, you've a real treat in store, by reading his hilarious book.

The author was born in Illinois but settled in England at the age of 26. Many years later he returned for a holiday to retrace journeys made during his childhood with his family through "small town" America. A trip of 13,978 miles in all.

His descriptions of people, places and events are wonderfully humerous and sometimes a little cutting. He absolutely loathes mobile homes (and the people who inhabit them!.), fast food, which was unfortunately his diet throughout his whole trip and the dreary monotony of TV and radio advertisements. But the biggest hate of all are the "Tourist Tatt Shops", and he makes the most wonderful descriptions of the rubbish that is on sale and the people who buy it !

However, this book is not just a dig at the U.S., he also visits places that he really adores and fill him with fond memories of his childhood. A really excellent read.

J.L. All Bill Bryson's books are available at Kiriakou Bookshop, Curium Roundabout, Limassol.

One of the "low lights" of my career, dog grooming was the appearance every month of a West Highland White Terrier. His owners were totally unable to bath or groom him, even as a small puppy, he had an aversion to any form of beauty treatment whatsoever. So it was my misfortune to be "Chosen" to do the job.

He'd had several other groomers who'd been bitten quite badly and had refused further forays. I took him on, as I had many supposedly fierce animals on my list and had never been bitten. At first he was not too bad, but as they say "familiarity breeds contempt". One trick was to never look him in the eyes - malevolence wasn't in it - the other trick was never to touch his "naughty" bits, very unusual in a male canine. The only way of approach was to lift him on the table and fix the stay strap round his neck and stretch him as far as possible, so that his back legs were in ones hands and his front paws were at the extreme edge of the table. Any canine beautician out there will know that this is fraught with difficulties. After all knots and tangles were removed, it was bath-time. Comparatively easy, as when he decided he was boss the simple expedient of spraying him in the mouth for a few seconds calmed him down. He loved being dried with towels - even a cuddle, but when it came to finishing off with the dryer, it was back to stretch position. Two pair of hands would have been useful. The clipping and scissoring was highly dangerous. The idea was to be a couple of thought seconds in front of him and to be on guard all the time. I stuck it out for ten years but for health reasons had to give him up. Just not strong enough to hold him. Such a pity that his temperament made him useless for showing because confirmation wise he was perfect.

Again there is only one major holiday during this time it being Assumption Day on Sunday 15thbAugust, when the majority of families will go to church, as this is the day of the reception of the Virgin Mary bodily into heaven. Afterwards there will be feasting, dancing and singing in the school playground organised by the Youth Club. The Youth Club will be extremely active during this period, as they are organising the Festival, which is on Sunday 1st August from 8 p.m. until the early hours, again in the school playground. It consists of singing, dancing, food and drink and possibly a magician and comic - the big attraction being a fantastic lottery.

It has been held every year for at least ten years and as it is at the end of the season for farmers and a number of Cypriots living in England visit the village at this time, the idea is to entertain the villagers including local ex-pats and the visitors, raising hopefully as in the past approximately £5000 clear profit, which in previous years has gone to building the new Youth Club. This year it has been decided to use the proceeds for the running expenses of the club and, for the first time, paying a manager/coach for the football team. SO PLEASE COME ALONG AND SUPPORT IT!

Another major event is the boat trip to Rhodes organised by the Maroni Co-operative Bank for its members on 27th to 29th August, which is being supported by over 120 villagers.

Volume 1, Issue 3