This month we say goodbye to David Bryant, who has been Secretary/Treasurer of the Maroni Newsletter since it was started by David and his wife Pat in March 1999. The aim of the newsletter was an effort to bring together the village community and the expatriate population.
The
Committee would like to take this opportunity to thank him for all the hard work
he has done since the first issue, and to wish him well for the future. There
have been comments and criticism of the newsletter in its present form, but when
it was announced in the August 2003 edition that David would be retiring in February
2004, there was no interest shown by anyone willing to take over as Editor.
As
‘temporary’ Editor if any of our readers have anything to contribute, local news
items, favourite recipes, or in fact anything that readers would enjoy, The Editor
would be pleased to hear from
you. In this edition we have an article on ‘Egypt’, by Don Campbell-Thomson. ‘White
Slip Ware’ pottery by Alison South. Village at work - Loom weaving in Maroni.
A Recipe, ‘Cinderella’ at Skarinou, and our usual, we hope , informative reports.
I want to speak to everyone. I send you my Best Wishes for the Easter Season,
and also I give you God’s Wishes to you and your families. It is good to know
about our Easter programme. We start to have late afternoon services for 50 days,
for better spiritual living and God contact. I am sure you will want to know everything
about it. When you live in our village it is good to know something about the
Easter celebrations in Maroni, especially do not forget Good Friday, Saturday
morning and Saturday evening, Easter-time and the bonfire on Saturday night at
11pm until the early hours of Sunday morning. The Church services are routine
like every year, with longer services on Thursday and Good Friday.
This year on Easter Monday night, a play will be performed by actors from the village. If you come early in the afternoon you will see something about Traditional local games. I hope that you will enjoy your celebration time.
Plans
of the new church. 
The Late Bronze Age archaeological sites which have been excavated in the neighbourhood of Maroni (see earlier issues of Maroni News for details) have yielded many finds which demonstrate the wide trading connections of Cyprus at this period, as well as the high quality of local products. The skills of the ancient Cypriot potters are particularly well shown by the type of pottery known as “White Slip Ware”, of which many examples were found in the Maroni excavations and are now in the Cyprus Museum, British Museum and elsewhere.
White
Slip Ware (in use about 1650-1200 B.C.) is a very recognisable and striking pottery
style, created by a complex process of manufacture. Like most of the Cypriot Bronze
Age pottery types, it was not made on a potter’s wheel but by hand. The main body
of the pot is of slightly gritty grey or reddish clay. On top of this was applied
a white or cream “slip”, that is a coating of thinner clay which forms the outer
surface and gives a pleasing appearance. Then painted designs were added in brown
or black, in the form of various special patterns, such as parallel lines, ladders
and lozenges. It has been suggested that these rather unusual patterns might have
been imitating ancient embroidery or woven designs, or incised decoration on gourds.
The shapes of the pots include a range of bowls, jugs and tankards, but probably
the most common were the hemispherical bowls with “wishbone” shaped handles, to
be seen in all museums which have collections of Cypriot pottery. During the long
period of several hundred years in which White Slip Ware was made and used, there
was some development of the style. 
The
earlier type known to archaeologists as “White Slip I” has very delicate painted
decoration, often in a two-colour scheme of black or dark brown, and red; the
later “White Slip II” has monochrome designs which gradually become coarser, finally
ending up with some distinctly sloppy “Late White Slip” at the end of the 13th
century B.C. During most of the Late Bronze Age, White Slip Ware was one of the
most popular table wares used by the ancient Cypriots, and it is found at almost
all sites of this period throughout the island.
The
shapes and decoration of White Slip Ware are quite unlike anything found anywhere
else in the ancient world, so if even a small fragment is found on a site outside
Cyprus, archaeologists can immediately identify it as a Cypriot import. The pottery
repertoires of other lands in the East Mediterranean did not include anything
so striking, and by this period were mostly wheelmade, hence more standardized
and uninteresting. Thus White Slip Ware had considerable appeal as an exotic import,
and indeed it has been found in fair quantities at numerous Late Bronze Age sites,
especially in the Levant (Syria, Lebanon, Israel and Palestine) and Egypt, in
smaller amounts in Anatolia and the Aegean, and in ancient shipwrecks where there
have been underwater excavations. 
An
interesting point is that whereas most ancient pottery trade consisted of ‘closed’
vessels, that is shapes with relatively narrow necks which would keep the contents
secure, and which were transported for the sake of their contents rather than
the value of the pots themselves, in contrast the majority of exported White Slip
Ware were the hemispherical bowls, not a suitable shape to use as containers during
transport, which must have been traded for their own sake as attractive and unusual
table ware. Following the general patterns of Bronze Age seaborne trade, White
Slip Ware mostly occurs outside Cyprus in the coastal sites, and much more sparsely
inland.
It provides important evidence for the patterns of ancient trade, and helps to
relate the dating of the archaeological sites in the various areas. The question
of exactly how White Slip Ware was made is the subject of much discussion and
scientific analyses among archaeologists, as it was evidently a complex process,
needing several different stages and different types of clay (for the body, slip
and decoration). 
The
only site where definite evidence of its manufacture has yet been found is at
Sanidha, at an elevation of 500 metres in the foothills of eastern Limassol District.
As the clays used would not occur in the coastal areas, it must have been manufactured
inland, and was brought down to the towns and ports from where it was exported.
Therefore, the large numbers of White Slip Ware vessels found at Maroni would
not have been made here, but were brought from some distance away, both for the
needs of daily use by the ancient inhabitants, and probably for onward export
trade in ships which called at Maroni.
|
£ | ||
| Balance at 1st March 2003 brought forward |
388-52 | |
| Advertisements for the year | 849-50 | |
| Donations from Readers (25) |
418-00 | |
| Donations re Web Site (2 years) | 314-85 | |
| Surplus on Sunday lunch | 81-00 | |
| Bank Interest |
9-33 | |
|
2029-37 | |
| less:- | ||
| Printing Costs |
1320-00 | |
| Cartidges |
66-00 | |
| Cost of Web Site (2 years) | 314-85 | |
| Overseas Postage | 29-70 | |
| Bank Charges |
6-00 | |
| Balance at 16th December 2003 |
324-65 |
The
renewal of the pipes for drinking water has now been completed. The system will
be tested and the road resurfaced as soon as possible. About £200.000 of damage
was caused during the recent storms, when four farms and some houses suffered
rain or wind damage. It was said to be the worst storms in over one hundred years.
Three greenhouses were completely destroyed and many others partly damaged. Part of the land behind the Church has been bought for £17.000 for parking space. It is hoped that the rest of the land will be bought as soon as possible. More pavements are planned this year, including crazy paving from Evgenia’s Mini Market down to John Ogilvie’s house.
Hello Maroni, It was so lovely finding a brilliant site about my home, Maroni. I live in Northwich, England now, and it is great being able to read about my home,. I really enjoyed reading the December letter, except for the piece about the bakery, it was very cruel showing all the delicious cakes and bread!. I look forward to reading January’s letter. Regards Maria xx Maria Giasemidis, Northwich, England.
The Hand ‘n’ Home-made Craft-shop in Tochni is organising:
A Lefkaritika Workshop (5 days). Once a week : Outdoor painting lessons (Aquorell), and walks, which will follow and trace the wild flowers in our area. Information and bookings at the shop, or phone Teresa on 24 332 331. Opening Hours until the end of March: Wednesday – Sunday 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. From April: Tuesday – Sunday 9 a.m. – 12 noon, and 3.30 p.m. – 7 p.m.
Mary originally lived in the old village of Phiti, just
outside the town of Paphos, where all the young girls were taught the art of weaving,
she said that “If you were no good on the loom, you were a not a good woman”.
Learning the
art of weaving from an old woman in the village, it had been passed down through
the generations for hundreds of years. Some of the very old looms are still in
use today as they have not changed much over the years. Today the girls in her
old village are weaving as a way of making an income.
Most
of the weaving was done in silk thread, she remembers in her young days that being
part of that traditional village life. Silk worms where cultivated in the villages
all over Cyprus, and yes even in Maroni, grown by the old bridge near the river
where some of the old Sycamorerear, (the Mulberry Tree) trees can be seen today.
Nowadays
the loom weave uses cotton threads of many colours, still on a plain background.
She married Argyros Agapiou in 1980, who is a local man. Argyros is a local farmer
who grows Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Peppers and Aubergines; he is the son of the lady
who sells strawberries at the Kalavasos crossroads. He is also a handicraft artist
in his own right, creating wood carvings and working with copper. 
About
3 months ago Mary started work on the loom again, she now makes small tray cloths,
small table cloths, curtains and cushion covers. She works on her own and sends
all of what she makes to the Cyprus Handicraft Centre, Nicosia, where many original
crafts, used throughout the Island, have been put together under one roof, this
is well worth a visit. 
If you would like some of the traditional style fabric, do give her a ring or call in. Telephone 24332132. Mary Agapiou, 11 Apostolou Louca Maroni Larnaca.
Despite the current, and hugely expensive TV advertising campaign extolling holidays in Egypt, I believe there is need to offer some pragmatic guidelines before venturing down the Nile, in order to best enjoy the experience.
First of all, Egypt is a safe location! It is as safe as anywhere in the world for tourists, certainly safer than London after dark! If anything, the safety element is almost overwhelming as there are armed (but exceptionally polite) police on very corner. Armed police convoys escort tourists from the cruise ships arriving at Alexandria or from Hurghada to Luxor, but it is all part of the Egyptian adventure. I am not going to dive into a history resume of ancient Egypt as there are sufficient well written guidebooks for the fact finding fundies, this is just an attempt to steer those of you going to Egypt for the first time, away from some of the areas which might disappoint you.
When to go Feb to April and Sept to Dec.Less flies and heat!
Arriving at Cairo airport, your tour guide will take your passport and buy you a visa ($15 and normally included in your package) and steer you through customs. If arriving on your own, go to any bank window at the terminal and purchase two stamps for your passport ($15), stick them in yourself and fill in the arrival card. It’s a trip of 60 Egyptian Pounds in a taxi to most of the downtown hotels.
Cairo
can be a bit off-putting with its undisciplined traffic, 29 million people, unerring
poverty, unkempt streets, uncollected garbage, and a layer of dirt over everything.
Equate their 5 star hotel rating with European 3 star and you will about right
when choosing hotels or cruise ships. The obvious first call is The Pyramids,
but this can be a bit disappointing, as is the Sphinx, due the township of Giza
being allowed to creep almost up to the foundations of both. It is almost impossible
now to get a clear photo of either without Coca Cola stands or souvenir stalls
in the frame. 
The
souvenir traders are really oppressive, and one has to sometimes stoop to rudeness
to escape their attentions (don’t worry, they are used to it). However, if you
have to have some souvenirs to take home, divide the traders asking price in half,
and start bargaining there.
One of the most convenient Hotels in Cairo is the Hilton. It’s walking distance from the museum in Cairo, which is a “must”, and although the cabinets and interior layout of the museum are past their “sell by” date, and could do with a refurb, the exhibits are breathtaking.
If you hire a guide, they are very knowledgeable. They have to be able to wear the badge (a four year course is mandatory, with two languages other than Arabic) but they will drown you in facts if you allow them to.
You
will never remember all the Pharaohs called Ramses, or in what order they ruled,
or all the ever changing Gods they worshipped, so unless you are a serious scholar
writing up your thesis, ask your guide to give you just the bare facts, or you
will have a headache by midday. 
The
Treasures of Tutankhamon are stunning and not be missed. Allow at least an hour
for this section if you want to fully appreciate the workmanship and wealth of
skill possessed by the artisans of ancient Egypt. By the way, there is no flash
photography allowed, and you will have to pay extra to take your camera in. A
digital camera is best, or a low light capacity video, but again, you have to
pay extra to take your video camera inside. You will also have major hassle at
the customs on entry with a video camera and it will be taken off you at the Valley
of the Kings. After Cairo, to see the rest of Egypt, I would suggest the following…
Fly to Aswan, stay at the Old Cataract hotel. It’s 102 years old, yet one of the
best, being historically atmospheric and oozing with old world charm. Dress for
dinner as the dining room is on a grand scale of 10, and although it is not compulsory,
its opulence will want to make you go back and change if you turn up casual. If
you can afford it, and want to impress your partner, book ahead and ask to stay
in the Agatha Christie suite, it’s an experience. 
The
bathroom is bigger than a normal hotel suite.! I couldn’t get my wife out of it!
Everyone who is, or was, anyone has stayed at the Old Cataract. The old Egyptian
King used to have his own private viewing balcony to watch the sun go down over
the cataracts and watch the white sailed feluccas weaving their silent way across
the Nile as they have done for centuries. If you have read Wilber Smith’s “River
God” it will all come home to you. The view from the terrace with English afternoon
tea to watch the sun go down is an exercise in pure tranquility, and one of the
finest sights in all Egypt.
Temples? The hotel will fix you a short hop flight to Abu Simbel . There, prepare to be gob-smacked. It defies my humble vocabulary to describe this wonder. You will hardly speak to each other with amazement at the sheer proportions and workmanship in and outside the temples. Next stop in Aswan is a pleasant little 5 minute boat ride to the Temple of Philae, another beautiful example of skill and proportions, and great for those Kodak moments.
The best way to see what else Egypt has to
offer is to take a cruise botel from Aswan to Luxor. Its a 3 or 4 day trip stopping
at all the major Temples on the way up river. However, there are cruise ships
and cruise ships, with varying degrees of comfort. Top of the line are the Abercrombie
and Kent ships followed by Movenpick the Swiss group, but if booking with Movenpick,
take their Ramses 2, its their newest, and go for a first class cabin, its worth
the extra. End of the line is Luxor .The ship will arrange for you to go with
the ship’s guide to the Valley of the Kings, Luxor and Karnak Temples, but I would
recommend you get your own personal guide, it’s worth the little extra. Nothing
worse than roaming around in a group always at the back and hearing nothing of
what the guide is saying. If time or finances inhibit the cruise ship, there are
a number of flights and a train from Aswan to Luxor . 
When visiting the Valley of the Kings beware, you can only visit the tombs you have bought tickets for. Tutankhamon’s tomb is totally underwhelming and not worth the extra charge, whereas Tutmose III tomb is the most dramatic, but you have to be fit for this one. You have to climb about four hundred stairs to reach the entrance housed in a cleavage in the cliff, and then climb down another two hundred stairs through low passages and holes to reach his final resting place. Well worth the heavy breathing though. Don’t expect your guide to come with you on this one, they are too wise! You will have to tell your guide beforehand which tombs you want to see ,so you need to read this up before you land at Luxor. Again, no flash is allowed in the tombs, but digital will give you all the memories you want, but as I said before, videos have to be left at the gate. It’s very, very hot in the Valley of the Kings, so take headgear and water with you.
Next stop is the temples of Karnak and Luxor. Absolutely fabulous! Allow at least an hour for each. Photography no problem at either. They have a “Son et Lumier” but it’s a little overdone, and a bit too Hollywood for my liking.
If
you still have time and need to relax before leaving Egypt, Sharm el Sheikh is
a pleasant wind-down by the sea with some top class international hotels. Diving
is among the best in the world. If you haven’t time to relax there, you will have
to put up with the shambles of Luxor airport. There are no signs, no directions,
and the departures and arrivals board has been out of order for years. 
Aircraft schedules are known only to the pilots of Egypt Air, and bear no relation to the take off time on your ticket. Leave yourself a healthy margin of time if you are catching a connecting flight to Europe or The States. Allow at least a half day or you will have palpitations. The only time you really know you are the right plane at Luxor is when you are belted in and the hostess tells you what flight you are on! Before that, it‘s pure guessology, forced to ask everyone in the semblance of a uniform and other bemused passengers. If you make it back to Cairo on time, and you are not in the hands of a reputable tour company, make absolutely certain that your taxi driver knows (in words of one syllable) which airport you are departing from. Yes, Cairo has two and you can easily be dropped at the airport your flight is not leaving from! The other airport is another taxi away or a very long hot walk. I know, I have done it…!
Whilst once waiting in the departure lounge (I use the word “lounge” loosely), I had an interesting discourse with an American and his family. We thought of forming an “Egyptian Holiday Survivors Club”. We would meet like the Trekkies do, dress up and relate our adventures. You would get differing awards and T shirts relative to the time you held out before you blew a fuse and lost the plot at the lack of information and downright creative arrangements everywhere. “I’m a 10 day survivor of Egypt” would be a much admired T-shirt inviting applause and discerning attention. A sense of humour and the patience of a saint are required when traveling Egypt, but it can be the holiday of a lifetime enjoying the “wonders” of ancient Egypt. It took me four trips to avoid, or at least to prepare myself for the problems. I just thought I would pass on some tips to give you the same chance. Travelling in Egypt has left me with one niggling thought, that there must be a missing link somewhere between the Egyptians of today and the master craftsmen of ancient Egypt. I have this feeling that the ‘ancients’ who created the wonders we are left to admire, caught the last spaceship, and put the lights out before they went…!
A tried and tested recipe for soup while there
is an abundance of cauliflowers. 
Steam the cauliflower whole for 20/30 minutes until tender. Cut it into florets, reserving any leaves or tender stems.
Melt the butter in a small frying pan. Add the onion and cook over gentle heat for about 10 minutes, until soft but not coloured. Puree the cauliflower and the onion mixture with 250ml/8 fl.oz. of the milk in a blender or food processor, then rub through a fine sieve into a clean pan.
Stir the remaining milk into the pan, with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the soup to just below boiling point, then lower the heat so that it barely simmers. In a small bowl, mix the egg yolks with the cream. Stir a little of the hot soup into the egg mixture, mix well, then add the contents of the bowl of soup, stirring over a low heat until it thickens.
Serve at once, topping each portion with toasted almonds. Serves 4.
The Sunday just before Christmas, 60 people attended for the
annual pantomime at Happy Valley House, Skarinou. Welcomed by mine hosts Achilleas
and Pauline, they enjoyed a meal of Pie and Mushy Peas, plus Apple Pie and Cream.
This was followed by a production of Cinderella, written, directed and produced by Pauline, who was also stage-managed and did just about everything else. The cast, roped in by Pauline with promises of future stardom, all gave excellent performances. Achilleas gave a surprise performance as the Fairy Godmother complete with fairy ‘wand’. As usual there was lots of audience participation and good humour at the expense of the cast. Everyone who was there will be looking forward to this year’s production.
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